Mountain Odyssey Expedition Log

Peaks & Passes of the Khumbu: Day 1

DAY: 1,2    The group rallies at LAX in Los Angeles and departs the USA.  We fly Thai Airways for part or all of the trip to Nepal.  Crossing the International Dateline the flight takes three calender days, and requires a layover in Bangkok, Thailand.  We usually stay at the Airport Amari Hotel which is very convenient when we arrive in Thailand at 11:30 pm after 18-20 hours on the plane!  The hotel has a great breakfast buffet and there is plenty of time before we board a Thai Airways flight at approximately 10:30 am for the three hour flight into Kathmandu.

Rowaling Expedition: Day 1

Day 1-2:  The group rallies at LAX in Los Angeles and departs the USA.  We fly Thai Airways for part or all of the trip to Nepal.  Crossing the International Dateline the flight takes three calender days, and requires a layover in Bangkok, Thailand.  We usually stay at the Airport Amari Hotel which is very convenient when we arrive in Thailand at 11:30 pm after 18-20 hours on the plane!  The hotel has a great breakfast buffet and there is plenty of time before we board a Thai Airways flight at approximately 10:30 am for the three hour flight into Kathmandu.

Day:3

Day: 3  After a three hour flight from Bangkok, you arrive at Tribhuvan Airport in Kathmandu, Nepal.  Have a pen, $30 in US currency and your visa application filled out.  You'll get the application on the plane before landing in Nepal.  After passing through customs and collecting your baggage, you will find me waiting for you outside the baggage claim area.  I will be there with some of the Sherpas to collect you and drive to the Summit Hotel.  The Summit Hotel is a serene environment with beautiful gardens, a pool and most importantly, a good restaurant.  We'll start with a briefing at the hotel and answer all of your questions and explain the next two days activities.  Then it's time to stretch your legs and see some of the fascinating city of Kathmandu.  Time for a little culture shock!  We'll have a traditional Nepalese dinner at one of my favorite restaurants in the city.  Afterwards, it's back to the Summit for a very welcome night's sleep!

Day: 4

Day: 4  We will have one full day in Kathmandu before departing on our trek.  It will start with a gear check at the hotel to be sure everyone has all the equipment they will need in the mountains.  Then the rest of the day is for a sightseeing.  Bhaktapur, Bhoudinath and Thamel are but a few of the places to visit in this fascinating and ancient city.

Day:5 Rowaling

Day:5  We depart Kathmandu early in the morning.  It's a 7-8 hour bus ride through the foothills of Nepal, to the village of Dolakha.  We'll stop along the road for lunch.  In Dolakha we unload our gear, meet our porters and begin our trek.  That afternoon we walk downhill, losing about 2400 feet in elevation, as we decend to the Tamba Kosi (river).  It's just a 2-3 hour walk that afternoon to our first camp at Malepu (2904'). 

Day: 5 Khumbu

Day: 5  We rise early and after breakfast drive to Tribhuvan airport.  We board a Twin Otter for a breathtaking 45-minute flight to the airstrip at Lukla (9200').  Arriving in this bustling little village the first thing you notice is the cool, clear mountain air and the impressive peaks that surround the village.  This is only the beginning!  The scenery gets bigger and better every day as we ascend into Everest National Park!  Camp is in Phakding the first night, a 3 hr. walk from Lukla.  At 8500' it is the lowest point of our trek.  That is to say, it's all uphill from there.

Day:6 Rowaling

Day:6  We begin the first full day of our trek with hot wash water and tea delivered to our tents.  After breakfast our walk takes us up valley along the Tamba Kosi.  Following the trail through rice paddies and Tamang villages, snow covered Gaurishankar (7135m) can be seen in the distance.  Camp that evening will be at Surya Dovan where the Khare Khola flows into the Tamba Kosi. 

Day: 6 Khumbu

Day:6  Leaving Phakding we cross the Dudh Kosi (Milk River) several times during the day, heading up valley toward the entrance of Mt. Everest National Park.  This is the main trail to Everest and is busy the first two days, but don't worry it will not stay this way.  After stopping for lunch along the river, we spend the rest of the afternoon on the long climb to Namche Bazaar.  At 11,300' Namche is a bustling village located at the crossroads between Tibet, Mt. Everest Park and the lower region of Solu Khumbu.  Camp will be set on a terrace overlooking Namche, surrounded on all sides by Himalayan giants! 

Day: 7 Rowaling

Day: 7  We continue our slow ascent toward the Rowaling valley, passing through more Tamang villages.  Camp that evening will be at Gongar (4593') along the Tamba Kosi.

Day: 7 Khumbu

Day: 7    Following the mountaineer's adage, "climb high and sleep low", we'll spend a second night in Namche for the purpose of acclimatization.  At first light we'll walk up on the ridge above camp for our first glimpse of the magnificent panorama which includes Mt. Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam.  After breakfast a good portion of the day will be devoted to hiking and exploring the neighboring villages of Khumjung (12,434') and Khunde (12,598').  Returning to camp in the afternoon, there will be ample time to spend in Namche.

Day: 8 Rowaling

Day: 8    We leave the Tamba Kosi far below and make the gradual climb to Simigaon.  The lower section of this sprawling agricultural village is occupied by Tamang people but the upper portion is Sherpa and there is a Buddhist Monestary nearby.  Here we are on the edge of the Rowaling valley.

Day: 8 Khumbu

Day: 8    This is a short, steep day.  We move camp up to Khumjung (12,434') visited on the previous day.  Moving our camps up gradually early in the trek will help us acclimatize well for the higher altitudes to come.  Khumjung is a beautiful village with fantastic views of Ama Dablam and Thamserku! 

Day: 9 Rowaling

Day: 9    Leaving Simigaon behind we enter the Rowaling valley.   Closed to westerners until 1989, the Rowaling was considered a beyul or "place of refuge in troubled times".  Following the Rowaling Khola (river) along the south side we gain approximately 3100' in elevation as we climb beneath the lower ridges of Gaurishankar (7135m).  The air is cooler now and we see few signs of habitation before Beding. 

Day: 9 Khumbu

Day: 9    We take the high route after leaving Khumjung, climbing a stone stairway through a cliff band on the lower slopes of Khumbila.  This scenic trail is too steep for yaks so it has little traffic on it.  Lunch is served on the terrace of a tea house in Mon La from where we enjoy spectacular views of Thamserku, Kantega and Ama Dablam!  After lunch we make a long descent to cross the Dudh Kosi and climb back up to the village of Phortse (12,467') where we make our camp that evening.

Day: 10 Rowaling

Day: 10    The trail continues up valley crossing to the north side of the Rowaling Khola.  Along the way we have glimpses of Chekigo (6257m) a newly opened trekking peak.  We camp that evening at Beding (12,200'), the main Sherpa settlement in the Rowaling valley.   Now we are entering high altitude and will spend two nights camped in this picturesque village for the purpose of acclimatization.  There will be ample time to visit the Gompa (monestary), one of the oldest in the area.

Day: 10 Khumbu

Day: 10    Leaving Phortse behind we spend the day hiking along a high and open trail on the lower slopes of Tawoche.  This is a secondary trail and offers fantastic views and few crowds!  Our lunch stop is in the village of Pangboche and there will be  time to visit the monestary, the oldest in the Khumbu.  That afternoon we continue on to Dingboche (14,271') where we will spend two nights for acclimatization.

Day: 11 Rowaling

Day: 11    The best way to spend an acclimatization day is to "climb high and sleep low" and that's what we'll do.  There is a trail just east of Beding which goes up and over Manlung La, an 18,202' pass leading into Tibet.  We will climb as high as time allows, have lunch and enjoy the views, spending the better part of the day before heading back to camp in Beding for a second night.

Day:11 Khumbu

Day: 11    The best way to use an acclimatization day is to "climb high and sleep low".  Crossing the Imja Khola outside Dingboche we will spend the day hiking to 16,000' on the lower slopes of Ama Dablam. I have a favorite spot to stop for lunch that will offer us great views of Nupste, Everest and Lhotse.  This will prepare us for moving our camp higher on the following day.  We will spend a second night in Dingboche.

Day: 12 Rowaling

Day:  12    Continuing up the Rowaling, we trek to Na at 13,800'.  The Sherpas use this small, primitive settlement in the summer when they move their yaks to higher pasture.  Surrounded by high peaks, we spend two nights in this camp as we continue our program of acclimatization.

Day: 12 Khumbu

Day:  12    Heading east from Dingboche we follow the main trail for a short distance before turning north onto a steep trail that will lead us up to our first pass, Kungma La.  Climbing past Bibre, we make camp in a beautiful, high meadow directly across from the spectacular north face of Ama Dablam.

Day: 13 Rowaling

Day: 13    Taking another day at Na for acclimatization, we hike up to a small lake called Omat Tsho.  Omat Tsho is a sacred place and this is always a special day.  Located near the Tibetan border, it is used by the local lamas to perform pujas.   We'll gain 1500' to 2000' in elevation, have lunch and do a little training on fixed ropes before the first climb.

Day: 13 Khumbu

Day: 13    Getting an early start from camp, we hike towards our first pass Kungma La.  Near the top we skirt the shore of a beautiful alpine lake with Makalu reflected in it's waters.  At this point, those wishing to climb Pokalde (19,049') will come with me while the rest of the group proceeds over the pass and down to camp.  This first climb is primarily a rock scramble to a small summit that is located right in the center of Everest National Park.  Fantastic views!  We shouldn't see many people on this leg of the trek.  

Day: 14 Rowaling

Day: 14    Leaving Na, we head east and cross to the south side of the Rowaling Khola.  Taking the trail to the south, we turn up the drainage of the Yarlung and Ramdung glaciers and climb to the base camp of Yalung Ri at approximately 16,000'.  This is a beautiful and remote camp offering great views of Chobutse and the Tibetan peaks beyond. 

Day: 14 Khumbu

Day: 14    With the previous day having been the first big day of the trip, today will be a rest day.  After a leisurely breakfast we will break camp and take a 1 hour hike across the Khumbu glacier.  The trail will lead us over the boulder strewn glacier and bring us out above the village of Lobuje.  The rest of the day is yours to kick back or explore on your own. 

Day: 15 Rowaling

Day: 15     For our first climb Yalung Ri (18,580') is a very straightforward and enjoyable snow climb.  We'll get an early start and follow the morraine of the Yalung glacier to the northwest ridge which will lead us to the summit.  This is a fun climb and great conditioner for the higher, more challenging  Parcharmo. 

Day: 15 Khumbu

Day: 15    Today we have a close-up look at Mt. Everest.  We leave our Lobuje camp early and follow the trail along the Khumbu glacier crossing the Changri Glacier before arriving at Gorak Shep.  Gorak Shep,the last outpost of civilization, was the original base camp used by Hillary during the first ascent of Everest.  Crossing a dry lake bed the trail leads up the south ridge of Pumori to a point known as Kala Pattar (black rock) at 18,300'.  This offers possibly the best vantage point to view Mt. Everest from base camp to summit.   

Day: 16, 17 ROWALING

Day: 16, 17    We have two days to move into striking distance of the summit of Ramdung Go.  While not much higher than Yalung Ri it is farther back up the Ramdung Glacier and we will have to move camp at least one time, depending on conditions, to be near enough for a reasonable summit day.  Then we will approach the mountain from the north-east flank for a straight-forward climb to the summit.  Ramdung affords great views of Melungste and Gaurishankar!

Day:16,17 KHUMBU

Day: 16,17  After a big day hiking up Kala Pattar we have an easier, shorter day moving up to the base camp of Lobuje East, our second climb.  This camp is in a spacious meadow on the south side of Lobuje and seldom crowded.  We will be on the trail 2-3 hours on day 16.  On day 17 we also have a short distance to cover as we hike up to high camp.  This is one of my favorite high camps in the Khumbu area on the shore of a small alpine lake with incredible views of the north side of Ama Dablam, Kantega and Thamserku.

Day: 18 ROWALING

DAY: 18    We approach and climb Ramdung Go via the north-east flank.  This is a straightforward snow climb which leads to a summit the offers fantastic views of Gauri Shankar, Melungste and the Tibetan peaks beyond.

DAY: 18 KHUMBU

DAY: 18    It's up and out early for those wishing to climb Lobuje East (20,075').  This is a fun, moderately steep snow climb with great views of the surrounding Khumbu valley.  I plan to make the summit, break high camp and return to base camp that evening.  I prefer this climb over the more popular Island Peak.

DAY 19: ROWALING

DAY 19:    Our first two climbs behind us, we descend to the main valley trail and follow it to Kobuk.  Our camp is in a meadow beneath the morraine that forms Tsho Rolpa, a large glacial lake at the foot of the Trakarding Glacier.

DAY 19: KHUMBU

DAY 19:    This is a challenging day after climbing Lobuje.  We'll get an early start as we climb Cho La, our second pass.  When we get to the pass, the climbers have the option to make the ascent of Chugima Ri, 18,800'.  The others can continue down t he pass to camp at approximately 16,500'. 

DAY: 20 ROWALING

DAY: 20    From Kobuk we follow along the terminal morraine forming Tsho Rolpa.  Before long, the trail turns uphill and we make a 1500' climb detouring around an area of dangerous rockfall only to drop immediately back down to the Trakarding Glacier.  We follow the trail through boulders and glacial debree untill reaching a somewhat flat area on the glacier where we spend the night.  This is a challenging day!

DAY: 20 KHUMBU

DAY: 20    Leaving the camp beneath Cho La we climb a small pass and descend the the trail westward, to the Ngozumpa glacier which flows down from the southern slopes of Cho Oyu.  The passage across this enormous glacier takes about one hour and we come out near the village of Gokyo.  Our camp will be in a high alpine meadow next to one of the turqouise lakes of Gokyo, Taujun Tsho.

DAY: 21 ROWALING

DAY:  21     This too,is a challenging day of glacial travel.  Continuing to the head of the Trakarding Glacier beneath the slopes of Bigphera-Go Shar, we turn north and climb up to the Drolambao Glacier.  We then follow it to the base of Tashi Lapcha Pass (18,881') and begin the ascent.  We will camp on the pass, conditions permitting, to gain easy access to our final climb, Parchamo.

DAY:21 KHUMBU

DAY: 21    Today we hike to the top of Gokyo Ri, 17,519'.  The trail leads north through the village of Gokyo and around the shore of Taboche Tsho (lake) to the foot of the Ri.  Then it turns upward and meanders to the summit which provides us spectacular views of Cho Oyu, Everest and surrounding giants.  We gain approximately 2000' and the climb takes 1-3 hours for most people.  We enjoy lunch on top and return to the same camp at your own leisure.    

DAY: 22 ROWALING

DAY:  22    Today we have the option to make the last and highest climb on our trek, Parchamo, 20,700'.  This is another snow climb and camping on the pass, will probably be the coldest of the climbs.  Rockfall is a concern while crossing the pass and the members opting not to climb Parchamo will get an early start and descend beneath the walls of Tengi Ragi Tau and down the valley into Mt. Everest National Park.  The climbers will follow late in the day after returning from the summit.

Photo:  Dave with friend and Exum Guide Forrest McCarthy on Parchamo

DAY: 22 KHUMBU

DAY: 22    Again we follow the trail around the shore of Taboche Tsho, this time bypassing Gokyo Ri and continuing up the long climb to Renjo La (17,772').  This pass was only recently opened to westerners and we were reportedly the first to cross it with yaks in 2003.   We descend the west side of the pass, past the small lake, Reimo Tsho and camp in a yak pasture beyond.  We probably won't see many people other than Tibetan nomads in this remote valley.

DAY: 23 ROWALING

DAY:  23    We have now reached the high point of the trek and the rest is downhill!   We continue to descend the valley leading into Mt. Everest National Park.  This is a beautiful segment of the walk from Tashi Lapcha to the village of Thame as we pass beneath the enormous walls of Teng Kang Poche.

DAY: 23 KHUMBU

DAY: 23    This is a more casual day as we move camp to a high yak pasture beneath the northeast face of Kyajo Ri.  We can use the afternoon to rest up for our final climb of Pk. 5880.

DAY: 24 ROWALING

DAY 24:    Today we reach Thame, a classic Himalayan village with it's monestary perched on the mountainside.  We will spend the night here and have time to visit the gompa (monestary) the next morning.

DAY: 24 KHUMBU

DAY: 24    This is the last big day of the trek as we climb the remote Peak 5880.  We'll leave camp before first light and begin the long traverse and approach to the peak.  This is another snow climb which leads to a small summit with yet another spectacular view of Everest and the other peaks of the Khumuche Himal.  This Is the grand finale of our trip and it is literally down hill from here!

DAY: 25 ROWALING

DAY: 25    Today we take time to visit the Thame monastery after breakfast.  One of the oldest in the Khumbu, it sits perched on the mountain side above this picturesque village.  Then we head down the trail to Namche Bazaar.  Namche is situated at the crossroads on the trail from Tibet, Everest National Park and the mid-hills of Solu Khumbu.  From park headquarters on top of the hill, we get a glimpse of Everest.   

DAY: 25 KHUMBU

DAY: 25    We leave the Kyajo Ri base camp and descend to the valley trail, following it down to the village of Thame.  This is one of my favorite Himalayan villages with it's picturesque monastery perched on the mountainside above.

DAY: 26 ROWALING

DAY: 26    It's downhill today as we make the steep descent from Namche and  follow the Dudh Kosi (Milk River) to the village of Phakding, 8500'.

DAY: 27 ROWALING

DAY: 27    Our last day on the trail, we make the slow climb up to the airstrip at Lukla.  We'll spend the last night in a teahouse near the airport and be ready for an early flight the following day.

DAY: 28 ROWALING

DAY: 28    We'll get up early and be ready for our flight as the first planes come in from Kathmandu.  Lukla is a busy place with hundreds of trekkers eager  to catch their flight back to the city, a shower, and a real bed!  You will be too!

DAY: 29 ROWALING

DAY:    This is another free day in Kathmandu.  You can do a little shopping, or explore on your own and I will have a van available for some sightseeing.

DAY: 30 ROWALING

DAY: 30    Our trek has come to an end and it's time to leave Nepal behind.  The Thai Airways flight leaves Kathmandu in the afternoon and gets into Bangkok around 6:00 pm.  You can spend the night in Bangkok and return home the following day or detour to the beaches  in the south and delay your return just a few more days!

DAY: 31 ROWALING

DAY: 31    It's chillin' on the beach or back to the USA!

DAY: 26 KHUMBU

DAY: 26    Today is a casual walk down to Namche Bazzar.  Namche is a fascinating village situated at the crossroads between Tibet, Everest National Park and the lower Solu Khumbu region.

DAY: 27 KHUMBU

DAY: 27    After the steep descent from Namche, we follow the Dudh Kosi (Milk River) down to the village of Phakding.

DAY: 28 KHUMBU

DAY: 28    We make the slow climb back up to the village of Lukla where we will spend our last night in a teahouse.

DAY: 29 KHUMBU

DAY:29    We'll catch an early flight back to Kathmandu and have most of the day for sightseeing or shopping.

DAY: 30 KHUMBU

DAY:30    We have another free day to explore Kathmandu.

DAY: 31 KHUMBU

DAY: 30    It's time to say goodbye to Nepal.  The afternoon flight gets you into Thailand about 6:00 pm.

DAY: 32 KHUMBU

DAY: 32    Head for home or delay a few days on the beaches in the south of Thailnd.